A few years ago, I attended a charity event in Albuquerque called the Mayan Mystic Charity. My son who lives in Albuquerque had just broken up with his partner and at the suggestion of a friend asked his mom to attend the event with him as his date… what a sweet guy !
It was at this event that I first tried chili and chocolate and have loved it ever since. The sweetness and smoothness of the chocolate sliding down your throat; followed by a slight tickle in the back of the throat is pleasantly seductive.
This combination of chocolate and chili peppers was used by the early Aztecs as determined by archaeological discoveries of storage containers containing cacao pods and chili peppers. The chiles and cacao pods were also used as a tax payment to Moctezuma, the emperor of Tenochtitlán (now Mexico City). The great Moctezuma liked his cup of hot chocolate flavored with vanilla, honey and enriched with a good dose of chile colorado. The conquerors also picked up the custom and brought it to the other side of the pond and, of course, the rest is pastry and gastronomy history.
The story of how chocolate was added to tasty chili sauces involves the nuns. It seems that the mole poblano was created in the 16th century by the nuns of the convent of Santa Rosa in the city of Puebla. Obviously the archbishop was coming to visit and the nuns were concerned because they did not have food sophisticated enough to serve someone of their importance. While everyone was praying for guidance, one of the nuns had a vision. She instructed everyone to start chopping and grinding whatever edible they could find in the kitchen. Dried red chiles, fresh chiles, tomatoes, a variety of nuts, sugar, tortillas, onions, plantains, dried fruit and raisins, garlic, and dozens of herbs and spices were put into the pot. The final and crucial ingredient was the enchanted one: chocolate. The nuns then slaughtered their only turkey and served it, with the mole sauce, to the archbishop, who declared it the most excellent dish he had ever eaten!
About ten years ago, chefs seemed to rediscover the combination of chocolate and chili when they realized how well the combination worked. Who knows, maybe they tried the mole and decided that the chiles could work in a myriad of chocolate, savory, and sweet creations. Even now, many artisan chocolatiers now offer some variety of “Aztec” chocolate, flavored with the original “New World” flavors of chili and cinnamon.
I recently offered the following dessert to a group of friends. I didn’t tell them what the dessert was; however, they could see that it was a chocolate mousse. What they didn’t realize, until the first bite, was the addition of chili powder. They immediately recognized it and described the dessert with incredible adjectives… luxurious, silky, smooth, but with a slight hint of spiciness, a slight but bright accent, lingering on the back of the palate. The next morning everyone called and asked for the recipe! So now I offer it to you to try it with your friends.
As a footnote, when I was putting away all the ingredients I used in the mousse recipe, I placed the box of cocoa powder on a top shelf in my cabinet. Unfortunately, I didn’t quite reach it all the way to the shelf and it fell over, hitting me on the head and spilling its contents all over my face, my glasses, my T-shirt, and my jeans. He also dumped its contents on a counter, the stove, and the floor. It took me a couple of hours to clean up the mess; leaving my personal cleaning for last. However, my husband came to the rescue and vacuumed me up!
Chocolate mousse with red chili
8 servings, about 1/2 cup each
The idea of chili con chocolate still surprises most people, but the duo pairs beautifully in many chocolate desserts.
Ingredients
1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
4 tablespoons water, divided
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons mild to medium New Mexico red chile powder
1 teaspoon instant espresso powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
3/4 cup low-fat milk
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped (see cooking tip below)
1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
8 teaspoons dried egg whites (see Note), reconstituted according to package directions (equivalent to 4 egg whites)
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
Preparation
Sprinkle gelatin over 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl; set aside.
Combine cocoa, granulated sugar, chili powder, espresso powder, and salt in a large saucepan. Beat the egg, then the milk. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until steaming and beginning to thicken, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and immediately add the soft gelatin, chocolate, and vanilla. Stir until the chocolate is melted and fully incorporated.
Beat the egg whites, brown sugar, and cream of tartar in a medium bowl on an electric mixer on high speed until stiff peaks form.
Stir a quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture until smooth. Add the remaining egg whites until fully incorporated. Serve the mousse in 8 glasses or dessert glasses.
Chill the mousse until set, at least 2 hours. Top with some whipped cream and a chocolate covered coffee bean.
Ratings
Pasteurized dried egg whites are a good choice in recipes that call for raw egg whites. Look for brands like Just Whites in the natural or baked goods section of most supermarkets.
Cooking Tip: If you have a block or square of chocolate, grating it on a box rack allows the chocolate to melt faster when you heat it.
